Tag: Making

  • Custom Kenner “Big Head” Han Solo After Being Freed from Carbonite in ROTJ

    Custom Kenner "Big Head" Han Solo After Being Freed from Carbonite in ROTJ

    I wanted to build a custom action figure of Han Solo after he had been freed from carbonite in Return of the Jedi (1983), because I don’t like the “Last 17” version of Han Solo in Carbonite Chamber by Kenner (1985) and his NFL linebacker-like appearance (a complaint that I have about the evolution of Kenner’s action figure line from POTF–Barada (1985) is another not-true-to-screen-likeness–to its extreme in the POTF2 revival in 1995–consider the bulked-up Han Solo, for example).

    Kenner’s original Han Solo action figure (1978) from Star Wars (1977) seemed like a good starting place for my custom action figure. Instead of butchering a vintage one, I opted for a Hasbro Retro Collection version of Han Solo with the “big head” (2019).

    If you remember the ending of The Empire Strikes Back (1980) and the first act of ROTJ, Han goes into and comes out of carbon freeze wearing a white shirt, brown pants with second-class yellow Corellian bloodstripes, and boots.

    To customize the original Han Solo action figure, I needed to remove his vest and blaster holster and belt, smooth over those areas, prime, paint, and varnish. The following photos and notes detail how I customized Han for the beginning of ROTJ.

    This is the Hasbro Retro Collection Han Solo with big head that I started with. I forgot to take a side view shot, but he has the first class red Corellian bloodstripe (according to Star Wars lore, Solo began wearing the second class yellow bloodstripe to draw less attention to himself).

    Custom Kenner "Big Head" Han Solo After Being Freed from Carbonite in ROTJ
    Custom Kenner "Big Head" Han Solo After Being Freed from Carbonite in ROTJ
    Custom Kenner "Big Head" Han Solo After Being Freed from Carbonite in ROTJ

    I used a hobby knife to remove as much plastic as possible before switching to files and sandpaper from heavy to fine grit sandpaper.

    One regret is that I didn’t spend more time with the finer grit sandpaper. Priming and painting magnified imperfections that I couldn’t feel or see when I was working on the figure’s customized body shape.

    Custom Kenner "Big Head" Han Solo After Being Freed from Carbonite in ROTJ
    Custom Kenner "Big Head" Han Solo After Being Freed from Carbonite in ROTJ
    Custom Kenner "Big Head" Han Solo After Being Freed from Carbonite in ROTJ
    Custom Kenner "Big Head" Han Solo After Being Freed from Carbonite in ROTJ
    Custom Kenner "Big Head" Han Solo After Being Freed from Carbonite in ROTJ
    Custom Kenner "Big Head" Han Solo After Being Freed from Carbonite in ROTJ
    Custom Kenner "Big Head" Han Solo After Being Freed from Carbonite in ROTJ
    Custom Kenner "Big Head" Han Solo After Being Freed from Carbonite in ROTJ
    Custom Kenner "Big Head" Han Solo After Being Freed from Carbonite in ROTJ

    I further smoothed some of the ridged areas on his side and back before proceeding to apply a gray primer.

    Custom Kenner "Big Head" Han Solo After Being Freed from Carbonite in ROTJ
    Custom Kenner "Big Head" Han Solo After Being Freed from Carbonite in ROTJ
    Custom Kenner "Big Head" Han Solo After Being Freed from Carbonite in ROTJ

    I applied two coats of primer–letting each coat dry 24 hours before applying the next. Then, I moved on to painting.

    For his pants, I used Earth Brown with only a dab of Black mixed in. I only had matte finish paints when I worked on this customization. If I had to do it over, I would have went with glossy paints to improve the plastic-like appearance (e.g., so the shirt’s reflectivity would match the unpainted white sleeves).

    Custom Kenner "Big Head" Han Solo After Being Freed from Carbonite in ROTJ

    I only did one coat of brown, but I let it dry 24 hours before proceeding with painting Han’s shirt.

    I had trouble with adhesion of the white to the primer–even letting a coat dry for 24 hours, I would get some white flakes to come off when I would try to lightly sand it before applying the next coat.

    He ended up with three coats of white paint on his shirt.

    Also, I wish that I had completely disassembled the action figure so as to avoid the bunching/tearing of paint around his arm/shoulder joints when I would move them.

    Custom Kenner "Big Head" Han Solo After Being Freed from Carbonite in ROTJ
    Custom Kenner "Big Head" Han Solo After Being Freed from Carbonite in ROTJ
    Custom Kenner "Big Head" Han Solo After Being Freed from Carbonite in ROTJ
    Custom Kenner "Big Head" Han Solo After Being Freed from Carbonite in ROTJ

    The last paint applied was to create a black belt passing through belt loops. I used black paint and a very fine brush for this. Unfortunately, my hands shook a little too much and I couldn’t create good black rectangles for each belt segment appearing between brown “loops.”

    The trickiest painting application was the second class yellow Corellian bloodstripe. Each pant leg should have tiny yellow rectangular bars that go along the side of the leg from top to bottom. I used a pin and Medium Yellow paint. I put a tiny dab of paint on the pin and created 2-3 lines of the bloodstripe. I repeated this until both sides were done. I was happy with how the stripes turned out.

    Custom Kenner "Big Head" Han Solo After Being Freed from Carbonite in ROTJ
    Custom Kenner "Big Head" Han Solo After Being Freed from Carbonite in ROTJ
    Custom Kenner "Big Head" Han Solo After Being Freed from Carbonite in ROTJ
    Custom Kenner "Big Head" Han Solo After Being Freed from Carbonite in ROTJ
    Custom Kenner "Big Head" Han Solo After Being Freed from Carbonite in ROTJ
    Custom Kenner "Big Head" Han Solo After Being Freed from Carbonite in ROTJ

    The last step was applying a Satin Acrylic Varnish by Vallejo. Following the instructions, I kept the brush wet with water while applying the varnish. I painted two coats–giving each coat 24 hours to dry.

    Custom Kenner "Big Head" Han Solo After Being Freed from Carbonite in ROTJ

    The finished customized Han Solo action figure is below:

    Custom Kenner "Big Head" Han Solo After Being Freed from Carbonite in ROTJ
    Custom Kenner "Big Head" Han Solo After Being Freed from Carbonite in ROTJ
    Custom Kenner "Big Head" Han Solo After Being Freed from Carbonite in ROTJ
    Custom Kenner "Big Head" Han Solo After Being Freed from Carbonite in ROTJ
    Custom Kenner "Big Head" Han Solo After Being Freed from Carbonite in ROTJ
    Custom Kenner "Big Head" Han Solo After Being Freed from Carbonite in ROTJ
  • LEGO-Built Display Stand for Kenner’s 1985 Tatooine Skiff or Hasbro’s 2000 Re-Issue

    LEGO-Built Display Stand for Kenner's 1985 Tatooine Skiff or Hasbro's 2000 Re-Issue

    One of my favorite Star Wars toys was the Kenner Power of the Force Tatooine Skiff from 1985. I don’t remember the circumstance of getting it–was it a present or did I purchase it–but I remember enjoying the time that I spent taking my heroes on adventures on it.

    I no longer have that Tatooine Skiff and it’s virtually impossible for me to spend how much it would cost to replace it (complete, loose versions are trending in the $1000 range as of writing this). Thankfully, Hasbro’s 2000 reissue cost me only $50 plus shipping on ebay. The reissue is virtually identical to the original–same controls for the rudders, plank, figure launcher, and landing gear–but it has updated paint and detailing and the foot pegs are smaller for the POTF2 line of action figures (instead of the larger pegs needed for vintage Star Wars action figures).

    I wanted to display the desert skiff with landing gear up as it if were skimming along in the air above the dune sea. LEGO seemed like my best option with what I had on-hand. Below are photos of building the display stand and how it looks with the desert skiff on the stand.

    LEGO-Built Display Stand for Kenner's 1985 Tatooine Skiff or Hasbro's 2000 Re-Issue
    LEGO-Built Display Stand for Kenner's 1985 Tatooine Skiff or Hasbro's 2000 Re-Issue
    LEGO-Built Display Stand for Kenner's 1985 Tatooine Skiff or Hasbro's 2000 Re-Issue
    LEGO-Built Display Stand for Kenner's 1985 Tatooine Skiff or Hasbro's 2000 Re-Issue
    LEGO-Built Display Stand for Kenner's 1985 Tatooine Skiff or Hasbro's 2000 Re-Issue
    LEGO-Built Display Stand for Kenner's 1985 Tatooine Skiff or Hasbro's 2000 Re-Issue
    LEGO-Built Display Stand for Kenner's 1985 Tatooine Skiff or Hasbro's 2000 Re-Issue
    LEGO-Built Display Stand for Kenner's 1985 Tatooine Skiff or Hasbro's 2000 Re-Issue
    LEGO-Built Display Stand for Kenner's 1985 Tatooine Skiff or Hasbro's 2000 Re-Issue
    LEGO-Built Display Stand for Kenner's 1985 Tatooine Skiff or Hasbro's 2000 Re-Issue
    LEGO-Built Display Stand for Kenner's 1985 Tatooine Skiff or Hasbro's 2000 Re-Issue
    LEGO-Built Display Stand for Kenner's 1985 Tatooine Skiff or Hasbro's 2000 Re-Issue
    LEGO-Built Display Stand for Kenner's 1985 Tatooine Skiff or Hasbro's 2000 Re-Issue

    The rear clear brick columns each have one clear cheese wedge to hug the curvature of the undercarriage of the skiff.

    LEGO-Built Display Stand for Kenner's 1985 Tatooine Skiff or Hasbro's 2000 Re-Issue

    The front clear brick columns are topped with 1×2 transclear tiles that hold up the flat plank area under the skiff.

    LEGO-Built Display Stand for Kenner's 1985 Tatooine Skiff or Hasbro's 2000 Re-Issue

    Did you notice the Han Solo with white shirt and brown pants in the completed diorama? I’ll write about how I customized that action figure tomorrow.

    LEGO-Built Display Stand for Kenner's 1985 Tatooine Skiff or Hasbro's 2000 Re-Issue
  • LEGO-Built Alcove in Jabba’s Palace to Display Hasbro’s Han Solo in Carbonite and Kenner’s Boushh (Princess Leia)

    Han Solo in Carbonite displayed in an alcove of Jabba's Palace built out of tan LEGO bricks.

    I wanted to display Han Solo in Carbonite more prominently on my Return of the Jedi/Jabba’s Palace shelf of my Star Wars collection. There is Hasbro’s set that includes Han, and there are some third-party creations on eBay, Etsy, and other websites. However, I have a lot of LEGO, so I figured that I would see what I could do with what I have on-hand before spending money on a solution. After several iterations, I finalized the MOC shown in the pictures on this post.

    Han Solo in Carbonite displayed in an alcove of Jabba's Palace built out of tan LEGO bricks.
    Han Solo in Carbonite displayed in an alcove of Jabba's Palace built out of tan LEGO bricks.
    Han Solo in Carbonite displayed in an alcove of Jabba's Palace built out of tan LEGO bricks.
    Han Solo in Carbonite displayed in an alcove of Jabba's Palace built out of tan LEGO bricks.
    Han Solo in Carbonite displayed in an alcove of Jabba's Palace built out of tan LEGO bricks.
    Han Solo in Carbonite displayed in an alcove of Jabba's Palace built out of tan LEGO bricks.
    Han Solo in Carbonite displayed in an alcove of Jabba's Palace built out of tan LEGO bricks.
    Han Solo in Carbonite displayed in an alcove of Jabba's Palace built out of tan LEGO bricks.
    Han Solo in Carbonite displayed in an alcove of Jabba's Palace built out of tan LEGO bricks.
    Han Solo in Carbonite displayed in an alcove of Jabba's Palace built out of tan LEGO bricks.
    Han Solo in Carbonite displayed in an alcove of Jabba's Palace built out of tan LEGO bricks.
    Han Solo in Carbonite displayed in an alcove of Jabba's Palace built out of tan LEGO bricks.
    Han Solo in Carbonite displayed in an alcove of Jabba's Palace built out of tan LEGO bricks.
  • LEGO Technics Laptop Stand for 16″ Lenovo Thinkpad P1 Gen4

    open laptop raised on a stand sitting on a white desk

    I’ve been using my Lenovo Thinkpad P1 Gen4 laptop as a desktop replacement system lately, so I wanted to raise its screen higher to avoid slouching and subsequent neck and shoulder pain. While there are lots of solutions to buy, I opted to use the LEGO Technics that I had on hand to build a stand. My goals for the project were facilitating maximum air flow and reliably holding a 4 lb. 5 oz. laptop.

    I started by disassembling the folding stand that I had built in 2024, but I noted how I sandwiched a Technic beam between two Technic bricks. The beam’s lower dimension provided a smooth shelf for the laptop’s feet to rest on and the studs on the bricks kept the laptop from sliding off the beam toward the front or rear. I planned to replicate this design in the new laptop stand.

    Another important element of the design was an open space beneath the laptop for maximum air flow (this laptop has an NVIDIA RTX A5000 16GB video card that I use for AI workflows). I figured that a rectangular holder for the laptop would work best and allow me to use the black Technic bricks that I had on hand in limited numbers (I have far more light and dark gray elements thanks to all of the Star Wars sets I’ve built over the years).

    To strengthen the rectangular frame, there are four layers: top-most brick structure, plates, substructure bricks, and plates. All joints are overlapped, which further strengthens the design.

    To support the rectangular laptop frame, I used one L-shaped beam to hold the frame at the bottom and a long Technic brick at 90 degrees to raise the back. As an added support to the back Technic brick, I put a L-shaped beam to apply pressure to the rectangular frame when under the weight of the laptop.

    The base of the stand is U-shaped to hold either side’s base in place to prevent any lateral movement, which could cause one of the supports to unhinge.

    As a safety measure, I added two Technic L-shaped beams to the bottom center of the laptop frame if not to hold the laptop in place should it slip off then to slow it down as it crashes forward on my desk. I’ve also found this useful for holding paper, such as printed articles, which makes it easy to read and type by looking down-and-up instead of to the left or right.

    The stand raises the back of the laptop up 7″, which makes the top of the monitor about even with my eye line. I’ve only been using it a couple of days, but it seems to fit the bill perfectly for my needs.

  • How to Build a Moveable Workbench Out of a Wood Wire Spool

    round wood workbench on caster wheels with a metal vice mounted on top

    When I recently visited my folks in Georgia, one of my projects was helping my dad clean up his shop so that he could more easily work in it. Over the years, it had become more and more cluttered. Perhaps most urgently, many tools were strewn about on the floor. I proposed turning a 48″ diameter wood spool that he had gotten from an electrical supply company into a moveable workbench. While the spool would take up roughly the same space, it would create two surfaces for storing tools and getting work done at elbow height. And, giving him a place to put tools when not in use where he could get them without bending over, would be a positive development, too.

    48" wood spool for holding electrical wire

    The wood spool is approximately 48″ diameter and 28″ tall.

    top surface of round wood spool

    This side was cleaner and had no obvious problems for working on a roughly flat surface. It would be the top of the workbench.

    bottom surface of wood spool

    We designated this side the bottom due to its rougher appearance and extra hole with arced routing (to secure the wire it once held?).

    set of four 6" caster wheels

    We picked up four 6″ caster wheels with grease fittings from Harbor Freight. These measure approximately 7″ tall including the base. Connected to the spool, these wheels will give the completed workbench an approximately 35″ height.

    bolts, nuts, and washers on a red metal surface

    After closing Ellis Auto Parts, my dad kept a lot of hardware that wasn’t sold, so we were able to find all of the bolts, nuts, and washers that we needed. To connect the wheels to the wood spool, we used 3/8″ x 3″ bolts with washers on top and bottom, and we used two nuts per bolt to lock the bolt (we couldn’t find any 3/8″ lock washers).

    caster wheel installed with one set of nuts before locking nuts installed

    To install the wheels on the bottom of the spool, I first selected one diameter line and marked it with a pencil. Using a square, I drew a perpendicular line through the center for the other two wheels. I knew that we were going to reinforce the workbench top with 2″ x 4″ boards cut to length, so I allowed enough room for drilling holes and driving screws through the spool ends into the 2″ x 4″s. I marked that distance (2″) from the outer edge along the diameter lines that I previously drew. Then for each wheel placement, I held a wheel where I had marked, centered it, and used a pencil to draw in the four holes at the corner of the caster wheel base.

    closeup of bolts and washers through lower surface of workbench holding the wheels on

    I drilled the four holes with a 7/16″ bit and installed the wheels with the 3/8″ bolts with a washer on top, a washer on bottom, and two nuts per bolt.

    closeup of 2 sets of nuts on each bolt holding caster wheels on bottom of workbench

    Since we didn’t have 3/8″ lock washers, we opted to use two nuts on each bolt to lock them in place.

    workbench wheels are installed on bottom of round workbench

    With the wheels installed, we began installing the 2″ x 4″ supports inline with each wheel.

    fitting 2x4 before installing
    2x4 in place before installation

    Because the spool was built imperfectly, we cut each 2″ x 4″ support to length as needed. We cut them about 1/16″ – 1/32″ too long so that we could wedge them into place with a mallet for a tight fit.

    2x4 notched to allow space for bolts and washers

    Using a table saw, we cut notches as needed on each 2″ x 4″ support to clear the wheel’s bolt heads and washers.

    closeup of screws driven through top surface of workbench into 2x4

    We pre-drilled two holes for each screw that would go through the top and bottom of the spool into the 2″ x 4″ boards. We used 3″ long deck screws to fasten the 2″ x 4″ boards in place.

    closeup of screws above caster wheels driven into 2x4

    Each 2″ x 4″ is held in place by 3″ long deck screws that were driven in after pre-drilling holes for each.

    round wood workbench on wheels on its side

    With the wheels attached and the 2″ x 4″ supports installed, we tilted the workbench over.

    round wood workbench on wheels
    round wood workbench on wheels

    The workbench rolls around effortlessly after being completed.

    large metal vice sitting on the concrete floor

    My dad also had a Columbian vice manufactured in Cleveland, Ohio. It’s about as heavy duty as you can get. It would certainly help him with some work, so we decided to install it on the workbench above one of the 2″ x 4″ supports.

    bolts, nuts, washers, and lock washers on a wood surface

    For the vice, we used three sets of 9/16″ bolts, washers, lock washers, and nuts.

    vice mounted on top of round workbench

    I marked the location of the holes using the base of the vice as a pattern, drilled 5/8″ holes, and installed the bolts through the top and washers, lock washers, nuts on the bottom.

    round wood workbench on caster wheels with a metal vice mounted on top

    Our mobile workbench made out of a wood spool for holding heavy duty electrical wire is completed and ready for work.