Tag: Making

  • Painting with LEGO: How to Recreate Mondrian’s Tableau I (1921) with 1×1 Flat Tiles

    LEGO recreation of Mondrian's Tableau I--white canvas, black intersecting lines, rectangles of red, blue, yellow, and white.

    I have appreciated Piet Mondrian’s neoplasticism artwork for many years. As I wrote about here, I was glad to see his work shown in Lt. Cmd. Data’s quarters on Star Trek: The Next Generation. Then, after seeing some of his works in person at the Museum of Modern Art in Manhattan, I hatched a plan to copy his the painting from Data’s quarters–Mondrian’s Tableau I (1921) on display at the Kunstmuseum Den Haag–using a different medium: LEGO.

    Planning with GIMP

    GIMP screenshot with Mondrian painting

    Before creating a planning image using GIMP, I had to decide what size I wanted (and could afford) my build to be. I had already decided to use LEGO 1×1 flat tiles as the “painting medium.” Using LEGO’s Pick-a-Brick service online, these bricks cost $0.05 each in a variety of colors. If I went with a 32×32 stud “canvas,” that would give a surface area of 1,024 studs and therefore a need of 1,024 flat tiles to cover all of those studs. This would cost $51.20 for enough tiles to cover a 32×32 surface. Other options that I considered was enlarging each dimension by 1.5 to 48×48 for 2,304 studs and a cost of $115.20 for enough tiles or enlarging by 2 to 64×64 for 4,096 studs and a cost of $204.80 for enough tiles. Even using bricks that I already owned to create the canvas and stand, it was hard to spend more than the $51.20 for enough tiles to cover a 32×32 canvas and essentially fill the volume of your hands cupped together.

    With that decision made, I could begin working in GIMP. First, I opened an image of Mondrian’s Tableau I (1921). The original is painted on a 103cm x 100cm canvas. Since I am creating a perfect square, I needed to square this image and resize it to match my calculations. To do this, I simply selected Image > Scale Image > unlinked the horizontal and vertical resolution > entered 320 for X and Y > clicked Scale. This made the image a perfect square with a resolution of 320 by 320.

    GIMP screenshot with Mondrian painting with Filters menu open

    Next, I needed to make the image look more LEGO-like to calculate how many flat tiles I would need of each color. To do this, I added a new layer over the original image and then clicked Filters > Render > Pattern > Grid.

    GIMP screenshot with Mondrian painting with Grid window open

    On the Grid pop-up window, I changed the Width and Height to 10–meaning that there would be a grid line every 10 pixels on the X and Y axes. Since I had already scaled the image to 320 pixels on each side, this grid would perfectly approximate the 32 x 32 grid of my LEGO canvas. Also, I set the line width and height to 1 pixel each so that it wouldn’t be too large and obscure the next step. After clicking OK, the grid appears over the image.

    GIMP screenshot with Mondrian painting with grid overlay

    While remaining on the layer with the grid, I selected the paint bucket tool, selected the color of the target areas–black, blue, red, and yellow–in turn, and filled the appropriate squares to match the original painting underneath. I did this to make sure I was making the tile count as accurate as possible. If I hadn’t done this, the black lines would be less noticeable and what I might count as a colored square versus a black line might become confused. At a LEGO resolution of 32×32 studs, it was impossible for me to make it as accurate as the original, so this technique helped me approximate the original with a high degree of accuracy.

    Then, I counted the squares of each color to make my LEGO order: 686 white, 177 black, 77 blue, 70 yellow, and 14 red. I ordered a extra flat tiles of each color in case my counting was incorrect.

    Building the Canvas

    LEGO white plates in a 32x32 layout

    I wanted to build a substantial canvas for the Mondrian instead of using a 32×32 base plate. Also, I wanted to build with as many white bricks and plates as I could to reduce how much I had stored in plastic bins under my desk.

    To begin, I laid out a 32×32 grid of plates. I didn’t have a large number of similar types of white plates, so I had to try different configurations before settling on one. If I had to do over again, I would have tried configuring it for more staggered stepping instead of long break lines as I did.

    LEGO white plates in a 32x32 layout turned upside down

    I flipped over the plates to begin building the support frame for the canvas using bricks.

    LEGO white plates in a 32x32 layout upside down with white bricked border

    I wanted the canvas to appear stretched, so I continued the color white from the canvas’ plates to the border.

    LEGO white plates in a 32x32 layout upside down with bricks filling the full layout

    Knowing these other colors would be hidden, I used filler bricks in a mirrored pattern (I would know what it was like underneath even though no one else would).

    LEGO white plates in a 32x32 layout upside down with bricks filling the layout but center removed for hidden compartment

    After beginning to cover the filler bricks with white plates (stretched canvas) and sand plates (wood frame), I thought that it would be cool to build a hidden compartment to hold a written statement about the artwork. So, I pulled out some central bricks, filled the center with inverted 2×2 flat tiles.

    LEGO white plates in a 32x32 layout upside down with bricks filling the layout but center removed for hidden compartment and trapdoor installed
    LEGO white plates in a 32x32 layout upside down with bricks filling the layout but center removed for hidden compartment

    I constructed a compartment door on hinges in the middle of the back of the canvas and filled the rest of the space with dark sand plates (paper backing protecting the canvas).

    LEGO white plates in a 32x32 layout upside down with bricks filling the layout but center removed for hidden compartment with trap door open

    Here is the hidden compartment door open.

    LEGO white 32x32 canvas completed studs up

    Flipped back over, the canvas is primed and ready for the “paint.”

    Constructing Display Stands for the Canvas

    LEGO canvas with display stand installed

    I used LEGO Technic bricks to build two stands for the canvas so that it was held at a stable angle.

    LEGO canvas with display stand installed sideview

    It’s about 70 degrees from horizontal.

    LEGO canvas with display stand installed

    I beefed up the friction connection between the stands and the canvas by using two 1×10 Technic bricks that attach to the canvas.

    LEGO canvas with display stand installed closeup

    From the blue color, you can see that I used a number of 3 brick width pins.

    LEGO canvas display stand legs detail

    These photos show the stands in more detail detached from the canvas.

    LEGO canvas display stand legs detail
    LEGO canvas display stand legs detail

    Note that the angle is achieved by having the long arm simply rest against a smaller L-shaped Technic support arm. Gravity holds things in place.

    LEGO canvas display stand legs detail

    I added extra Technic bricks to the stand’s bottom support legs for extra strength.

    Assembling Mondrian’s Tableau I (1921)

    After placing my LEGO Pick-a-Brick order for the “painting” 1×1 flat tiles, it took about a week-and-a-half to arrive.

    Bag of hundreds of LEGO pick-a-brick

    I ordered bricks for a custom Millennium Falcon that I am currently also working on, so I needed to sort everything out.

    Man sorting LEGO bricks from bag of pick-a-brick

    Here I am sorting the LEGO bricks.

    5 piles of 1x1 LEGO flat tiles in different colors

    With the bricks sorted, I began to paint my recreation of Mondrian’s Tableau I (1921).

    LEGO Mondrian painting build in progress

    I began at the top horizontal line and created one line at a time–kind of like a CRT drawing a line of pixels across the screen one-at-a-time.

    LEGO 1x1 flat tiles skewed at different angles after connecting to LEGO plate

    The problem with LEGO flat tiles is that they are difficult to align just by placing them on a stud.

    To align each line of flat tiles, you can take a brick separator, place it edge-wise along the flat tiles, and pull it back-and-forth lightly–hard enough to press against the flat tiles’ edges but not so hard as to keep it from moving above the adjacent studs as in the picture above.

    Straight aligned row of 1x1 flat tile LEGO

    As you can see, the flat tiles are now aligned better. I did this trick for each line of flat tiles as I worked down the canvas.

    Almost completed LEGO Mondrian painting

    Nearing the end of the build, I discovered that I didn’t have enough flat tiles in white and black. I recounted and recalculated. My count was correct, but LEGO short changed me about 70 elements from my order and gave me 70 extra yellow tile that I didn’t order. I called their customer service the next day and asked that they correct the order. I received the missing parts after another week-and-a-half. I continued “painting.”

    3/4 view of completed LEGO Mondrian painting

    After several weeks, I had completed my copy of Mondrian’s Tableau I (1921) using LEGO!

    Sideview of completed LEGO Mondrian painting

    The side view reveals hints of the “paint” of the lines of 1×1 flat tiles.

    Back view of completed LEGO Mondrian painting

    The back of the canvas mounted on the display stands has its hidden compartment in the back center of the canvas.

    Artist statement on parchment pasted to inside of hidden compartment on LEGO Mondrian painting back

    For the hidden artist statement, I cut out a 4×4 square and wrote in pencil, “Miniature copy of Piet Mondrian’s Tableau I (1921), 103cm x 100cm at Kunstmueum Den Haag. Design and Build by Jason W. Ellis 2024. Medium: LEGO.” I pasted it on the flat tiles inside the lid of the hidden compartment.

    What art should I recreate with LEGO next?

  • Tuxedo Cat Astronaut Reading Science Fiction on a Space Station Created with Stable Diffusion

    Tuxedo Cat Astronaut Reading Science Fiction on a Space Station Created with Stable Diffusion

    I discovered that the RealVisXL V4.0 Stable Diffusion SDXL checkpoint is really good at creating anthropomorphic chibi-style cats. Here’s an example of a tuxedo cat astronaut reading science fiction aboard a space station created with Automatic1111’s stable-diffusion-webui using that model.

  • New Wood Shelf to Show Off the Millennium Falcon Above My Home Workstation IKEA Table

    IKEA 47" desk with metal legs and DIY 12" shelf supported by two 2" x 4" x 24" studs. There are two Millennium Falcon toys on the shelf.

    I have two big problems. One is a Kenner 1979 Millennium Falcon, which is 22″ long and a little over three pounds. The other is the much larger Hasbro 2008 Legacy Collection Millennium, which is 32″ long and weighs 15 pounds. Living with these hunks of junk in a small Brooklyn apartment presents a problem–where to put them?

    For awhile, I’ve had two 4′ desks in an L-shape configuration. One is my ancient IKEA 47″ x 24″ artificial wood with metal legs desk, which had been holding the Falcons. The other is a Costco 48″ folding plastic desk, which I had setup to use my computer and laptop on. I wanted to put the Costco desk away to free up some living room floor space, so I thought about adding a shelf to the Ikea desk would be the solution.

    I used to have a series of lightweight shelves on my Ikea desk to display LEGO sets, which I wrote about here. I discarded those when we moved from Carroll Gardens to Park Slope, which is fine as they were not wide enough or strong enough to support the two Falcons.

    I already had screws, brackets, and support plates. I also had a 4″ x 12″ x 1″ board that I had used to extend the IKEA desk’s table top for lightweight objects. I took this board off the IKEA desk and intended to use it as my new shelf.

    What remained needing were two supports for the shelf. Yesterday, I walked to the Brooklyn Lowes to buy two 2″ x 4″ x 2′ studs (total $4) for the shelf supports.

    The corners of the IKEA desk are more substantial to support the installation of its four legs. Therefore, I wanted to mount the shelf’s two supports through that particle board instead of the weaker honeycomb core of the desk top. I drilled pilot holes 3/4″ from either side of the desk top at 1″ and 2 1/2″ from the back of the desk top to correspond with the pilot holes I centered on the 2″ x 4″ supports at the same measurements. I drove 3″ deck screws from the bottom of the desk top into the bottom of the 2″ x 4″ shelf supports.

    L-shaped metal bracket connecting an IKEA desk top with a 2" x 4" stud

    I provided extra support with a flat metal plate on the back and an L-shaped bracket on the front.

    1 7/8" deck screws driven through a 1" x 12" x 48" board

    Taking the shelf, I measured and drilled pilot holes on its back end at 1 1/4″ from either side at 1″ and 2 1/2″. The shelf is 48″ long but the desk is only 47″ long, so the shelf hangs over its supports by 1/2″ on either side. To secure the shelf to the supports, I drove 1 7/8″ deck screws through the shelf into the support from the top.

    Metal plate and L-shaped bracket supporting the meeting of a 2" x 4" support and 1" x 12" x 48" board

    I reinforced the shelf with a metal bracket on the back of each support and an L-shaped support on the inside under the shelf.

    1/2" clearance between edge of shelf and skateboard hanging on the adjacent wall

    I had to slide Y’s electric piano over an inch to give my shelf about 1/2″ clearance from my Ray “Bones” Rodriguez Powell-Peralta skateboard hanging on the wall.

    2008 Hasbro Millennium Falcon sitting on the shelf

    Looking at the “BIG” 2008 Millennium Falcon on the shelf, you can see that the landing gear comfortably fit on the 12″ (11 1/4″ actual) shelf when positioned longways. As you can see in the first photo on this post, the smaller 1979 Falcon can fit in any orientation and currently facing toward the front of the desk.

    I’ll keep an eye on the shelf to see if it needs any additional support on the front with heavy duty shelf brackets. It was already warped as shown above. I positioned the warp side up, so it might not need any further work.

    If you decide to build a similar back-mounted shelf on a lightweight desk like my IKEA one, be aware that the desk’s weight might not be enough to counterbalance the weight of objects that you put on the shelf, leading it to fall over backwards (if it isn’t positioned against a wall to halt it’s movement).

    In NYC, I suppose desks and shelves are like buildings–if you want more space, you gotta go up!

  • LEGO Folding Cooling Stand for Lenovo ThinkPad P1 Gen 4 Laptop

    LEGO Folding Cooling Stand for Lenovo ThinkPad P1 Gen 4 Laptop

    As I wrote about yesterday, my Lenovo ThinkPad P1 Gen 4 maintains lower temperatures when it has improved air flow under its body where the twin cooling fan intakes are. Without raising the laptop, the laptop’s support feet only give it about 3 mm of space underneath it, which chokes the intake fans. Since getting the laptop late last year, I’ve used a variety of at-hand objects–books and small boxes most often–to prop up the back of the laptop when I was stressing the laptop with a heavy workload.

    ThinkPad P1 Gen 4 rear support foot that runs about 80% of the width of the laptop.

    I wanted a permanent solution, but the portable options available in retail are either bulky adjustable metal or plastic platforms or folding 4-point stands. The former takes up a lot of room and those with fans don’t always translate to lower temps, and the latter might not provide the support needed on the ThinkPad P1’s lengthy support foot at the rear of the laptop. So, I turned to LEGO to create a customized stand that gives the ThinkPad the support it needs while also being compact and easily carried in my backpack.

    LEGO Folding Cooling Stand for Lenovo ThinkPad P1 Gen 4 Laptop

    What I made to solve this problem mostly used LEGO Technic elements with some brick elements (plates to provide support underneath its joints and the bright yellow smooth plates on top to orient the stand and provide a stop against the ThinkPad’s support foot).

    LEGO Folding Cooling Stand for Lenovo ThinkPad P1 Gen 4 Laptop holding up the laptop, side view.

    The ThinkPad’s support foot fits perfectly in the center of the stand without the studs toward the front or the flat plate in the back touching the laptop’s body.

    LEGO Folding Cooling Stand for Lenovo ThinkPad P1 Gen 4 Laptop

    Essentially, the stand is built like a sandwich: the bread is the Technic bricks with holes on either side, and the filling is the Technic liftarms (straight and L-shaped). I used 3-stud wide pins to hold the sandwich together. The red pins are only used to provide stability to the support legs when they are deployed for use.

    LEGO Folding Cooling Stand for Lenovo ThinkPad P1 Gen 4 Laptop
    LEGO Folding Cooling Stand for Lenovo ThinkPad P1 Gen 4 Laptop with legs folded

    On the back of the stand, the red pegs can be partially pulled out and the feet folded.

    LEGO Folding Cooling Stand for Lenovo ThinkPad P1 Gen 4 Laptop shown side by side.

    The LEGO stand completely covers the support foot at the rear of the laptop (seen at the top of the photo above). When folded, it easily slips into the backpack that I use to carry this ThinkPad.

    LEGO is a versatile, rapid prototyping medium for building art, expressing ideas, and in this case, creating something practical to solve a specific problem.

    If you have some LEGO bricks laying around idle, you might stop and think about what problem they might be able to solve for you!

  • DIY LEGO Display Stand for Holding Heavy Objects On My Desk

    DIY LEGO Display Stand for holding two heavy objects on a desk, 3/4 view

    This past weekend, I dug through my LEGO to build a display stand that could hold two heavy objects on my desk between my monitor and keyboard. It has a wide, lower space and a narrow, higher space for the two objects. To add some visual details, I used window panels along the front with transparent red cylinders in each window center, illuminated by ambient light entered through the top of the front.

    I’m including more photos below of all sides to inspire others. Since it was a trial-and-error build, I didn’t create instructions for the build.